FRILLED TIE-BACKS
Cut a strip of fabric for the tie-back, twice the finished width, and allow 12 mm (1 in) turning all round. Make up a gathered frill to match the lower edge of the tie-back. Cut interfacing the same size as the finished tie-back. Fold the strip for the band in half along its length and mark the fold line. Interface one half of the band, matching the top edge of interfacing to the fold line.
Fit the gathered frill to the raw edge of the band, below the interfacing, and stitch in place, distributing fullness evenly. 2 Fold the band in half along the fold line, right sides together. Stitch at each end. Trim seam allowances, press and turn right side out, pushing out corners for a crisp finish. Turn under the seam allowance along the back of the band, and slipstitch to the frill.
MAKING WINDOW DRESSING MAKING PELMETS (VALANCES) Pelmets (valances) should be fitted to a shelf or box above the window. Once the shelf is up, you can plan the shape using a large sheet of paper to make a template. The pelmet (valance) must be deep enough to cover the curtain tracks and headings and should be up to one-sixth of the depth of the window.
To add fullness without cutting out light, gathered pelmets (valances) are often shaped to drape up to halfway down each side of the window. For stiffened pellets (valances), cut the main fabric 5 cm (2 in) larger all round than the template, and cut the lining, interlining and stiff buckram the same size as the template. For gathered pellets (valances), calculate the finished (un-gathered) width according to the type of heading tape used.
As for curtains, use an exact number of widths of fabric to save wastage. Allow 10cm (4in) for the top turning and 5 cm (2 in) for the hem, cut interlining to the finished size of the pelmet (valance) and a strip of interfacing for the heading the same size as the finished width if required. Cut the lining the same size as the main fabric, reducing the top turning and hem to 4 cm (1 in). You will also need heading tape to gather the fabric. Heavy bullion fringing can be added along the lower edge.
For a bound edge, omit any seam allowance along the lower edge of the pelmet (valance) and lining. For a frill, allow a 15 mm seam allowance along the lower edge of the fabric and the lining.
FITTING THE SHELF Decide on the position for the shelf; you can either fit it close to the architrave around the window, or across the front of the opening of a recessed window, or make it wider and fit it well above the window to make the window look larger. Remember that the curtain itself will hang inside the box, so make sure there is room for the curtains to stack back on either side of the window where necessary. Fit the shelf with angle irons, or screw it 104 directly to a wooden window surround if there is room. Use 12 mm (in) plywood or softwood, and cut it the same width as the curtain track plus 5cm(2 in) either end for clearance. For a box, screw 10 cm (4 in) square pieces of wood to each end of the shelf before fixing it in place.
MAKING A TEMF Use a large sheet of paper (I offcuts of wallpaper are suited a paper to the length of the p shelf and fold it in half down the out a shape on the folded paper through both layers. Unfold the paper and tape it window so you can check the e necessary adjustments. This is the term for cutting out the fabric. If you are making a gather), you will have to ‘spread allow for the fullness of the second piece of paper to collect finished size of the pelmet (gathered. Take a series of measures 10 cm (4 in) or so, down the template, and transfer these to the new template, spreading cording to the type of heading using: for example, a pinch-j takes twice the fullness of f for double the spacing measurements.