Tag: sound absorbers

Acoustic sound are based on the polymer and they are free from dark bituminous pitch with sand or gravel and a product with high concentration of synthetic sound proofing membrane that gives a good acoustic insulation for the different building elements. They have flexible characteristics which can withstand even in cold temperatures, And extremely more visco-elasticity.
The 3 main properties of this product have made this product unique in acoustical products:
Flexible: the flexible nature of this product that can be bent as per the requirement and easily modified to respond to the altered circumstances and able to change as to adapt to different circumstances.
High elongation capacity: It is the ability of the material to undergo any deformation without any damage however it is limited to certain extent at the point where the material could undergo breakage.
Easy to handle and adaptable to uneven surfaces: These products are very easy to handle without any difficulty and are adaptable even in the unbalanced surfaces.
Applications:
1. The air transportation of noise insulation in the outer boundary of the air raft or a material with a less surface mass i.e light weighted partitions.
2. The reduction of the noise from the all types of frameworks during the formation of the floating floors.
3. In combination with the other sound absorption material it gives the results of high performance acoustic products.
Thickness: The acousty sound are available in the 3mm and 6mm.
Roll size: The roll sizes are available in 1m X 1.2m.
This acousty sound helps in the reduction of the sound or noise from the external sources and they are commonly used in class rooms , conference rooms , churches, offices, this helps in sound absorption and noise reduction.
The noise pollution can be avoided through the usage of variety of acoustical products .The company called acoustical surfaces Pvt ltd provides the solution for the all your noise pollution this company is foreign based and have got all the imported products and best technical engineers who call solve all your noise problems. This company has worked for many foreign companies and many popular companies in India also which provides them the best acoustic solutions.
We do have trained acoustical advisors who travel around the world experts in site analysis to assure you all the acoustical data required for the sound reduction.
They are affordable and gives high performance acoustical products. And also offers most user friendly , high tension fabric acoustical wall system in the industry.

Acoustical entryways are somewhat costly, and along these lines have a tendency to be saved for sound-basic applications like recording studios, government locales, or authoritative workplaces in production lines with bunches of substantial apparatus. Nonetheless, on the off chance that you are so delicate to sound that the neighbour’s pooch keeps you up throughout the night, or in case you’re a hey fi or home theatre devotee, you might be a contender for an acoustical entryway. For a definitive in acoustical seclusion, consider an acoustical twofold entryway.
How would you know how compelling an acoustical entryway is contrasted with other acoustical entryways? You take a gander at the STC. STC remains for Sound Transmission Class, and portrays the acoustic properties of an acoustical entryway compactly with a solitary number. It is a measure of sound transmission misfortune from one side of the way to the next. Accordingly, a higher STC implies the entryway keeps sound out (and in) all the more viably. Just a research center certify by the United States Department of Commerce, National Institute of Standards (NIST) under the National Voluntary Laboratory Accreditation Program (NVLAP) can formally test the entryway and issue a STC. This keeps makers genuine by guaranteeing they can’t cushion their numbers to make their entryway field engaging. The confirmation applies to a specific development and outline, paying little respect to measure, as the properties are relied upon to be fundamentally the same, and each conceivable variation of an entryway can’t be tried independently.
Acoustical entryways regularly have windows. By and large window size is constrained by craved STC esteem. Effect of window on acoustical segregation is assessed in light of window size. For the most part, in any case, an acoustical entryway won’t have louvers or vents, as these will trade off the sound lessening to the point of rendering the entryway futile as soundproofing.
While considering acoustical items, consider whether it originates from a maker who works in acoustical items. Likewise, consider equipment and establishment, as an acoustical entryway won’t be powerful if not introduced in an acoustically right way. Likewise ask in the matter of whether the producer ensures that the entryway will meet its predetermined execution in certifiable conditions.
Acoustical entryways are accessible with various flame appraisals. Home applications once in a while include fire entryways, yet in the event that you live in an apartment suite or are building a recording studio, you might need to consider an entryway with a sufficient flame rating. Acoustical entryways are normally accessible with flame evaluations of 20 moment, hour long, hour and a half, 3 hour, or “S”, which is held for genuine flame entryways.
Acoustical entryways and windows are accessible with STC evaluations of up to STC 56. You may not as a matter of course need the most elevated conceivable STC rating, be that as it may. Consider the acoustical properties of whatever is left of the room where the entryway will be introduced if the dividers are less soundproof than the entryway, then maybe you are spending unnecessarily on an entryway that is more soundproof than you require.
Acoustical entryways have a tendency to have a sound seal as a feature of the gathering. This is kind of like a gasket. Entryways evaluated STC 45 or higher have a tendency to have exceptional cam lift pivots and an aluminium limit so the entryway will seal as firmly as could be expected under the circumstances.

Use silicone rubber seal- ant or a plastic sealing strip, stuck in place with the adhesive supplied or with a clear silicone rubber sealant. Ceramic quadrants, or edging tiles, may be available in match- ing colours. Stick these to the wall with waterproof adhesive and seal them to the bath or basin with silicone rubber sealant. Worktops Tiles for worktops must be tougher than those used on walls. Flooring-grade tiles can also be used. Applying sealant Applying sealant so that gaps are completely filled can be a difficult job.

Some dispensers have winged appli- cators that help to shape the sealant as it leaves the cartridge, but when using a straight nozzle the simplest way of getting a neat result is to run a strip of masking tape either side of the area to be sealed. Apply the sealant between the tape, and then, while it is still soft, wet your finger and run it quickly along the sealant, pressing it home and shaping it precisely. Next, carefully pull the masking tape away from the wall straight away, leaving behind a neat line of sealant. If any sealant does stray and starts to set, let it cure and then cut it with a sharp blade and peel it away to leave a clean finish. S Since these tiles are tougher than normal, you may find that your existing tile cutter cannot cope. In this case borrow or hire a heavy-duty cutter that can handle tiles of 1 Omm fabout YJin) or more thick.

Try to plan your worktop so that you can use multiples of tiles without the need for cutting. This will also look neater. Shaping can be a problem, however, for while a tile saw will cut hard tiles, its blade will blunt quite quickly. Some worktop tiles have matching edg- ing strips to give a neat, rounded look to tiling. For many tiles, however, you will need to produce an edging, and this can be formed with plastic trim strips designed to sandwich under the row of edge tiles as they are laid. Always use waterproof adhesive, and space the tiles with the larger spacers used for floor tiles. Finish with waterproof grout, and seal the joint between worktop and wall with a silicone rubber sealant or with a plastic edging strip.

Interior game offers complete interior designing and decoration training and tips for the interior designers andstudents of interior designing and decoration from various universities. Interior designing guidance for all type of buildings will be given at free of cost.

Splash backs, hovers, and hover top some tiling projects call for attention to particular details, and for the use of specialized materials. This is especially true of showers, when it is vital to seal every gap to prevent water penetration. Also, should you wish to replace the tiles of, say, an existing splash back, or anywhere else, it may be possible to leave them in sit and simply tile over them. Right This fully tiled shower enclosure looks dramatic – but it takes a lot of work. Below When tiling splash backs, always use water- resistant adhesive and grout. Splash backs If you have never tried tiling before, then tackling a small area such as a splash back is a good introduction. Check that the back of the sink or basin is horizontal – if it is, the tiles can follow this line.

With a freestanding basin, extend the tiling by one tile either side. Place a rule across the back of the basin and mark a pencil line on the wall where the extended tiles will sit. Pin a piece of hardboard to this line to give the tiles something to rest on while the adhesive sets. Use water-resistant adhesive to fix the tiles and waterproof grout to finish. If the wall is papered, apply adhesive to the back of the tiles that overlap the paper, within 3 mm of the edges, rather than risk getting adhesive on the paper. If this does happen, wipe off the adhesive immediately. Shower enclosures In most situations a shower enclosure will involve two walls of the room, but should a third wall need to be constructed, use marine plywood on a framework of retreated timber.

The plywood will be unaffected by damp. Make sure you use both waterproof adhesive and grout. The most vital factor with a shower enclosure is to ensure that all gaps are carefully sealed, particularly where tiles meet the shower tray. The tray must be firm and not flex, and meeting edges must be dry before you apply sealant. Use a silicone rubber sealant, either” clear or in a color to match the tray as closely as possible. Leave the sealant to set before you use the shower. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Preventing water penetration Sealing gaps is also important behind sinks, basins, and baths.

Interior game offers complete interior designing and decoration training and tips for the interior designers andstudents of interior designing and decoration from various universities. Interior designing guidance for all type of buildings will be given at free of cost.

Remove excess or flaking paint manually with a wire brush or with a cup or wheel brush attachment on a power drill. Always wear face protec- tion. If repainting, use a metal primer on the cleaned surface first. Once metal has started to corrode the process will continue, and accelerate, unless it is properly treated. Where you find rust, indoors in bathrooms or on leaky radiators, or outdoors on decorative iron- work or guttering, use a wire brush to remove all traces of it. Finish off with wire wool to clear away any fine dust from the surface.

After that, paint over the whole affected area with a rust- neutralizing primer – or a decorative rust-resisting enamel paint of the type used for radiators, which does not need a primer coat- and allow it to dry completely before applying the top coat. eutrali;e rust by nsing a printer that reacts u-itb the rust and [ornis II barrier betu/een the metal and the moisture-laden air. • • Wa 115 he different methods and materials used in the construction of walls often depends on the age of the build- ing, when alterations or extensions fif any) were made and whether the walls are external or internal.

For the purposes of decorating it is hardly important to know how walls are built for they are usually covered  internally with a layer of plaster or plasterboard, which presents a smooth surface for painting or papering. All types of wallcovering – from wall- paper and vinyl to hessian, cork, and ceramic tiles – can be fixed with special adhesives, as along as the plaster is firm and sound. But for fixing anything heavier it is important to know what lies beneath the plaster so that you can make the right choice of fixing fsee p. 100-101). /I , a ~ ~ External Walls The outside walls of a house are usually built with a double thickness of bricks or blocks. Originally, walls would have been solid but, in the 1 920s, cavity walls were first introduced, and these are now stand- ard in houses built since that decade. These double walls improve insulation and reduce the risk of damp.

T Surfaces and primers Unpainted softwood fnew or stripped), composite boards Ordinary wood primers, all- purpose surface primers, or primer/undercoat Resinous softwood and hardwood Aluminium wood primer Insulation board Stabilizing primer New plastering, plasterboard, rendering, or brickwork All-surface primer under resin-based paints; no primer needed under emulsion Porous or powdery plaster, rendering, or masonry Stabilizing primer Old wallpaper Treat metallic inks with knotting New iron and steel Calcium plumbate primer outdoors; zinc chromate primate indoors Bitumen-coated metal Aluminium spirit-based sealer Galvanized iron and metal Calcium plumbate primer Aluminium Zinc chromate or zinc phosphate primer fnot lead- based primers) Copper and brass No priming necessary Lead Allow to weather before painting; no priming necessary Ceramic tiles All-surface primer or zinc chromate metal primer Plastic, glass fibre All-surface primer

Preventing further damage To protect vulnerable areas of woodwork – such as sills, which are affected by condensation or rain – drill holes in the timber and insert and then seal in special wood-preserving tablets. These will dissolve and release a powerful fungicide should the wood become damp. Having made good the damaged area, check carefully to see how it became damp in the first place. If condensation is the problem, ventilation may need improving. If damp is rising, you may need to renew the damp-proof course.

If water is penetrating, you may need to replace window putty or re-seal around frames to keep it out. • Replacing wood If the damaged area is greater than is practicable to fill, cut out and replace the damaged timber. Remove all the affected wood and shape the surrounding area so you can match it with new wood. Apply wood hardener to any remaining soft fibres. Treat exposed wood with a clear wood preservative and, if you are planning to paint, use pretreated wood to fill the hole. Other- wise, treat your shaped piece with clear wood preservative before fitting it in place. It is best to cut the repair piece slightly too high so you can plane or sand it flush with the surrounding wood.

A coat of wood primer seals the surface and acts as a “key” for the subsequent coats of paint. e If the abrasive paper clogs, clear it by drawing the uncoated side to and fro over the edge of a table or your work bench. o Fill any cracks or dents in the wood with cellulose filler if you intend to paint it. Use matching wood stopper prior to varnishing. o When the primer is dry, apply a layer of undercoat. Wait until this is dry and finish with a top coat. Woodwork Timber doors and windows, and their frames, are subject to pene- trating or rising damp – inside as well as outside. If you find areas of paintwork where there are hollows in the wood surface, or paint has flaked away, push into it with a sharp knife blade. If it sinks in with little resistance, the wood is rotten and there is no point redecorating until you have repaired it. The first step is to lift out all the rotten material using a narrow chisel, cutting back to sound wood.

If the gap left is large, cut and shape a new piece to fill. However, before you fit this, make sure the area is dry. If it feels damp, speed up the drying process with the aid of a hot air gun or blowlamp. Hardening and filling When the area is dry, apply a proprietary wood hardener to all the wood in the area of the repair. Be generous – allow it to soak right into the wood fibres and dab it in with a brush. For extra protection you can drill a number of holes, about 4mm C …• in) in diameter, in the nearby wood and tip hardener into them. It will take about six hours to set, and will strengthen any soft fibres and prevent the ingress of more damp. Next, use a two-part wood repair paste to fill the hole.

Check the instructions for the ratio of catalyst in one tube to repair paste in the other. Mix them together well, until they take on a uniform colour, then fill the hole using a small trowel or filling knife. Leave the filler just proud of the surface and, when it is hard fin about 20 minutes at normal room temperature), smooth it flush with glass- paper. Always work in the direction of the grain of the wood to avoid ugly surface scratches. Drying time of filler is about halved if you are working outdoors in hot weather. If you plan to paint the wood afterwards, then any two-part woodfiller will do the job.

If, however, you intend to stain it and finish off with a seal or varnish, then make sure you choose a filler that will take stain. Some fillers will not, and you will end up with ugly blotches where the stain has been repelled. o To protect wood around doors and windows, drill holes in the timber wide enough for wood-preserving tablets. If the wood subsequently becomes damp, the tablets release a fungicide that inhibits rot. e Fill the holes with an exterior-grade wood filler. Push the filler well into the holes, and clean up with a scraper or filling knife. Leave the filler just proud of the surface and sand it flush once it has hardened.