A SLIP-ON HEADBOARD COVER
Simple headboards are normally made from wooden panels, with slotted struts to attach to the base of the bed. Simple, slip-on covers are easy to make and can be removed for washing when necessary. If you want to cover a plain wooden board, use quilted fabric to give a soft, comfortable finish. If the headboard is already padded, you can use plain chintz. Measure the headboard and decide on suit- able finished dimensions for the cover. If the headboard is an elaborate shape, cut a template to make cutting out easier.
Cur out front and back panels – allow 12 mm for seams, and up to 2.5 cm (1 in) for ease around the top and side edges, particularly when working with quilted fabric. Allow 2.5cm along the lower edge. If the existing headboard is more than 5 cm (2 in) thick, cut a gusset to fit all around the sides and top edge, allowing 12 mm for seams and 2.5 cm (1 in) at each end. Cut piping to fit the seams around the sides and top edges, and binding to fit across both lower edges and across the gusset if there is one. Cut four ties, 5 cm (2 in) wide and 15cm long.
Fit piping around the sides and top of the front panel, clipping into the binding to fit it around corners if necessary. Fit piping around the back panel as well if there is a gusset. Join front and back panels, right sides facing and raw edges matching, sandwiching piping in between. If there is a gusset, fit the front and back panels to each long edge. Turn right side our and press. To make up ties, fold and press under 12 mm U in) down each long edge, fold in half and press, then stitch down the center of each strip. Bind the lower edge of the cover, catching ties into the stitching about a third of the way along each long edge.
ADDING A RUCH Tightly fitted covers for pa can be decorated in instructions here are for a : ruched border, made from a fabric, top stitched around t the cover and edged with pit Cur out front and bad headboard, including piping. Gusset if required. For the [1 strips, 18 cm (7 in) wide, one for the top, allowing at It times the length for full need extra piping to fit of the ruched strip. Gather each long edge stitching and join the end side section at each end of Miter the corners. Mark a ( (6 in) inside the raw edge 0 panel. Position the piping arc line and tack in place.
Tack t the ruched strip in place, taking seam allowance, with right facing piping and right side ( outer edge of the strip tow , frill, or turn right sides out and finish the lower edge by binding the raw edges together. A simple method of fixing a pelmet (valance) is to make it as for a window pelmet (valance) – see 104 – using curtain tape with hooks to attach it to the bed frame. You can make up three separate curtains – two for the sides and one for the foot of the bed.
MAKING A CANOPY A canopy with a frill is made in much the same way as a valance that sits on the mattress except that it is hung across the four poster. Choose two layers of a fabric such as voile, or similar light-diffusing fabric, for the canopy, with 12 mm seam allowance all round. No frill is needed across the head of the bed. Measure up and make three pelmets (valances) as before, but omit the casing allowance and gather the unfinished edge of each pelmet (valance). Fit them around one panel of the canopy with the right side of the valance facing the right side of the canopy. Distribute the fullness evenly, increasing fullness slightly at the corners.
Tack in place. Lay the second panel of canopy fabric on top of the frilled panel and stitch together all around the edges. Continue the stitching around the top of the canopy, leaving a 50cm opening at the center of the head of the bed. Trim seam allowances and turn right side out, then press. Top stitch through the voile and seam allowances, continuing top stitching across the opening at the top. If the four poster frame has finials at the top of the uprights, cut a hole in each corner of the voile canopy large enough to fit over the finials and neaten the edges by hand or with binding or piping.