Painting and Oil Finishes in Wood in Interior designing and decoration

Painting Oil finishes

Oiled finishes, such as teak oil and Danish oil, are a useful alternative to finishes mentioned above. They are also easier to apply than polyurethane and varnish. On new wood, you will need to apply two coats, either with a brush or a mildly abrasive pad, cleaning off excess oil with a cloth. Teak oil and Danish oil leave the wood with a soft, lustrous finish that is truly resistant to liquids. When a high-gloss finish is required on exterior woodwork, consider using a yacht varnish. This usually contains teak oil, which has outstanding exterior durability.

Selection of dyes on sycamore

1. Ash grey
2. Medium oak
3. Light oak
4. Walnut
5. Bright green
6. Apricot
7. Deep mahogany 0
8. Mulberry blue
9. Antique pine

Waxing

This is popular for treating newly stripped pine. Some waxes color the wood a little – improving the bleached-out look of pine that has been immersed in a caustic solution, and giving the surface an “antiqued” appearance.
If you don’t wish to alter the look of the pine, make sure the wax you buy is colorless. Always rub the wood down first with a fine-grade of steel wool. If the wax is applied with a soft cloth, it will produce a natural satin finish. If you want a higher gloss, however, allow the new wax to dry completely and then buff it vigorously with a soft duster or clean, soft shoe brush. Right When stained to produce the right color and then treated with a protective top coat of varnish, the true beauty of natural wood is unsurpassed.

French polishing

This traditional form of wood treatment produces a rich, deep, lustrous finish, and is often applied to fine furniture. However, applying French polish is a skilled task for which you will need energy, patience, and a willingness to follow the instructions supplied. As a basic guide, use this sequence of steps. o To charge the fad, remove the cloth and saturate the wadding with polish.
Replace the cloth and squeeze until the polish oozes through. • Rub the fad along the grain with a minimum of pressure, overlapping each stroke. Too much pressure will force out too much polish and leave the surface sticky. • Leave the polish to dry for 10 minutes and smooth the surface with abrasive paper. • After that, work the fad in a flowing, circular movement. Finally, work along the grain of the wood once more, overlapping each stroke. If the wood is paneled, use the fad’s nose to work the polish into the corners. Use the fad’s nose in the same fashion when polishing a carved wooden surface or when dealing with any awkward crevices.
Dust the surface to remove any grit and then fill the fad with polish again . Now work the fad along the grain of all the surface, overlapping each stroke. Next, work the fad in a series of figures of eight . Fabrics decorating your home involves far more than selecting the most pleasing combination of wall and floor coverings. By incorporating fabricscurtains, blinds, furniture covers, and cushions – you can change the decor from plain, drab and lifeless to one that has softness, warmth, and vitality. Fabrics are available in an enormous range of colors, patterns, textures, and weights. They vary from fine to coarse weave, shiny to rough surfaced, flimsy to heavyweight. Each is best suited to a particular range of uses and creates its own special effects.
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Painting Finish of the wood is an extremely important factor in interior designing and decoration

Painting the Wood and Finish in interior designing and decoration 

The finish of the wood is an extremely important factor. Although painting would hide any slight surface defects, any blemish in wood is immediately accentuated when a clear finish, or a stain followed by clear finish, is applied. It is important, therefore, that all woodwork is clean and smooth before decorating work begins. When a clear finish is to be applied, it is essential that you give the surface a final sanding by hand, following the grain of the wood. If an orbital electric sander has been used at any stage, small circular scratches, resembling fish scales, will be seen in the final coat.

Finishes and their effects

1 Matt polyurethane varnish
2 Tung oil
3 Patina-ting
4 Yellow acrylic stain
5 Gloss polyurethane varnish
6 Liming paste
7 Staining varnish.

Non-pigmented finishes

All finishes alter the color of wood to some extent, and some woods – mahogany and walnut, for example – turn much darker even when a completely clear finish is applied. An approximate idea of the color wood will take on when treated with a clear finish can be seen by dampening a small area with ordinary water. If this color is too light for your needs, then the wood can be stained before finishing. It is only possible to stain wood to a darker color; for a lighter shade it must be bleached. When staining wood, it is advisable to test the stain on an off-cut, or on an area that would normally be out of sight. It is notoriously difficult to remove stain, even immediately after it has been applied. If the wood has an open grain, and a smooth finish is required, then you will need to use a grain-filler to fill the pores . The alternative is to apply extra coats of the finish, rubbing down with an abrasive paper between coats.
Fill any cracks or holes in the wood with a wood-stopping material before applying the stain. The final finish may be of a type that gives a surface film, such as French polish, varnish, or polyurethane. The latter two are available in gloss, satin, and Matt finishes. Varnish stains are also available. These are convenient, since they will color and finish the wood in a single operation. Do bear in mind that each extra coat of varnish stain will darken the color of the wood and, unless brushed out very evenly, the color will vary with the thickness of the film. When wood is stained with a penetrating dye, the color will not vary _ no matter how many coats of clear finish you later apply. Don’t neglect to treat areas of woodwork that are normally out of sight. For example, when varnishing an external door, it is important that at least one coat is applied to the top and bottom edges, otherwise water may penetrate at these points and eventually cause the varnish to fail.
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Bathroom Interiors using Mirror Tiles and Mosaics for Convenience in Interior designing and decoration

Bathroom Interiors using Mirror Tiles and Mosaics

Mirror tiles Convenient for bathroom use, mirror tiles are usually supplied with self-adhesive pads or strips attached to their reverse side. If you intend to fix more than one, bear in mind that any unevenness of the supporting surface behind may well cause the faces of the tiles to produce some very distorted reflections. Unless walls are perfect, it may be preferable to fix a sheet of plywood backing to the wall first, and then stick the mirror tiles to it for a completely distortion-free finish.

Quarry tiles and mosaics

Although equally hard-wearing as ceramic tiles, and requiring similar fixing techniques, quarry tiles are un-glazed and have more of a casual, country appearance – a look that is emphasized by their predominantly earthy coloration. Quarry tiles contain a high proportion of quartz and are not particularly porous, which makes them a suitable choice for kitchens. There may be slight natural color variations in quarry tiles, even in those from the same batch – a fact you can exploit when planning a color scheme. Small quarry tiles in a variety of shapes are also available, and these are suitable for creating mosaic patterns. If left untreated quarry tiles have a Matt appearance.
If you want to produce more of a shiny finish, then you need to treat them with linseed oil and turpentine. Right Quarry tiles are a natural accompaniment for wood III a country-style kitchen. Below A mosaic splash back made from water-worn pebbles. Ceiling tiles Made from a variety of synthetic materials, ceiling tiles can add interesting textural qualities to a ceiling. These tiles are also a useful means of disguising a ceiling that is in poor condition. Expanded polystyrene tiles are the most common for domestic use, and are usually 30 cm or 60 cm square with chambered edges. They should be fixed with special tile adhesive, which must be spread over the whole ceiling.
Don’t use the “five-blob” method of fixing – in a fire, tiles melt away from the glue and drop from the ceiling. Modern tiles are self-extinguishing grade (5 X), so they are not a great fire risk. To calculate how many tiles you need, divide the squared area of one tile into the squared ceiling area. It is best to find the center of a room, as with floor tiling, and tile out from a center point. However, if there is a true, straight wall at the entrance to the room you could start there and work away. Fibrous tiles and gypsum plaster tiles are also available for ceiling work, but since they are much heavier they must be pinned to battens screwed to the ceiling. Find out which way the ceiling joists run and fix the battens at right angles, spaced so that the ceiling tiles meet at their centers.
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Cork Wall Tiles Vs Ceramic Wall Tiles to decorate walls in interior designing and decoration

Cork Wall Tiles Vs Ceramic Wall Tiles

To emphasize texture, use oblique lighting, which throws the hollows into shadow and highlights the peaks. Below Cork tiles make a warm, decorative coloring for bathrooms and other rooms, and they do much to camouflage poor wall surfaces.
Cork wall tiles
Most people think of wall tiles as being of the glazed ceramic variety, but for a textured finish to a room there are other types, such as cork. Cork tiles, as well as a being a popular choice as a floor covering, also make a decorative surface in bathrooms, where they contribute to insulation and warmth; in offices and children’s rooms, where they can double as pin boards; and in other rooms where they are used simply as a decorative device. Cork tiles are most commonly 30 cm square and about 3 mm thick. The type suitable as a wall covering are usually untreated, whereas flooring-quality types are sealed.
Always use the adhesive recommended by the tile manufacturer. Contact adhesives are applied both to the wall and to the back of the tile, while cork adhesive is spread only on the wall. It is important that the wall should be clean and free of grease.
HINTS AND TIPS
Natural cork is difficult to clean, so consider treating the tiles with a clear for, if you wish, colored) polyurethane sealer in a room where frequent cleaning may be necessary. • When tiling into corners, cut the last tile by holding a tile over the last whole fixed one. Then take another tile and place it over the two, but reaching right into the corner.
Mark a line along the edge of the top tile onto the surface of the middle one and cut along it with a craft knife to give a perfect fit.
Battens for fixing fibrous tiles to a ceiling need to be screwed into each joist to support the combined weight of the tiles. Above Mirror tiles are perfect in a bathroom, but the supporting wall must be perfectly flat. Don’t worry if the surface is uneven as long as it is reasonably firm – cork tiles are very forgiving and do an excellent job of camouflaging rough surfaces, With the aid of a plumb line and spirit level, mark vertical and horizontal starting lines for the tiling work. Even though cork tiles abut closely and do not show obvious joins, it is still worth applying the same principles of good procedure as you would when fixing ceramic tiles, so that cut tiles at either end of a wall are in symmetry.
Mirror tiles Convenient for bathroom use, mirror tiles are usually supplied with self-adhesive pads or strips attached to their reverse side. If you intend to fix more than one, bear in mind that any unevenness of the supporting surface behind may well cause the faces of the tiles to produce some very distorted reflections. Unless walls are perfect, it may be preferable to fix a sheet of plywood backing to the wall first, and then stick the mirror tiles to it for a completely distortion-free finish.

Quarry tiles and mosaics

Although equally hard wearing as ceramic tiles, and requiring similar fixing techniques, quarry tiles are unglazed and have more of a casual, country appearance – a look that is emphasized by their predominantly earthy coloration. Quarry tiles contain a high proportion of quartz and are not particularly porous, which makes them a suitable choice for kitchens. There may be slight natural color variations in quarry tiles, even in those from the same batch – a fact you can exploit when planning a color scheme. Small quarry tiles in a variety of shapes are also available, and these are suitable for creating mosaic patterns. If left untreated quarry tiles have a Matt appearance.
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How to seal the ceiling bleed with plaster and aluminium prime sealer?

Ceiling Bleed and stop with plaster or Aluminium prime sealer

Though Ceiling is not considered much like walls and floor in a room at the times of interior designing and decoration, it is must to watch the ceiling and give enough attention to it to get better appearance and gesture in the room.
Stains on a ceiling in interior designing can sometimes “bleed” through new decoration. If this is the case, you will have to seal the interiors ceiling with either aluminium prime-sealer or a proprietary stain block. ,a , Lath and plaster Timber strips known as laths are nailed to the undersides of the joints. Plaster can then be forced between the laths.

Ceiling tiles

Ceiling tiles can be used to cover up a poor surface or to add insulation to a cold room. It is usually best to tile from the center of the ceiling toward the edges of the room. If, however, there is a straight wall near the room’s entrance, you can use it as your starting point.
Expanded polystyrene tiles are usually 30 cm or 60 cm square and have chambered edges. They are fixed with a special tile adhesive that you spread over the entire ceiling. They are easy to trim and cut to size and shape using a sharp knife and straightedge. Fibrous and gypsum plaster tiles are another option for covering a ceiling. These tiles are, however, much heavier than polystyrene types and so they have to be pinned to battens that are screwed at right angles to the ceiling joints, and spaced so that the tiles meet at their centers. Finding the joints may be a little difficult. If you cannot locate them by tapping, listening for a different sound in response, drill a series of small holes in the ceiling until you find one.
Use 3 x 1.5 cm battens, for tongued-and-grooved tiles it is not necessary to install any cross-pieces, but some tiles may require them to give support along their edges. The tiles are pinned through their edges or installed with special clips, which are hidden by the adjoining tiles. If the tiles are to be painted, it is easier to do this before they are attached to the ceiling. Use either an emulsion or a fire- retardant paint, never use gloss paint, since it is highly flammable. Far left Tiles are useful for hiding a poor ceiling and for adding insulation. For the example here, the tiles are mounted in a lightweight frame.
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Tips for Creating Arches with plaster and paper and painting

Creating arches with paper and painting with plastering

Then two strips of paper are applied to the underside of the arch in interior designing and decoration to meet at the apex. Since large motifs and complicated patterns are difficult to match on the different faces of an arch they are best avoided. Small random patterns or textured paper painted with emulsion are better choices.

Fibrous plaster arches

If you don’t feel that your do-it-yourself skills are up to creating an ornate archway, then there are some easy and convincing “cheats” to fall back on, in the form of preformed, fibrous plaster arches. These arches, in various classic styles, are readily available, and are supplied in sections that you fix either directly to the opening, or to a light timber-batten frame, using either screws or caving adhesive and tacks.
Accessories, such as corbels and pillars, made from the same lightweight material, complete the effect. o Mark the center of the opening, offer one mesh arch former section to the wall and lightly nail it in place. e If required for a wide wall, cut soft strips from mesh to cover the gap between the arch former. Nail angle bead for brickwork or mini- mesh angle bead for plasterboard on all vertical corners below the arch. Insert a location jointing piece or dowel into the bead. Leave half protruding. Fit the other arch former. Repeat on the other side. Attach the soft strips to form a continuous infill on the underside of the arch using screws or ties. Plaster directly onto the steel mesh  using either two-coat or one-coat plasters.

Ceilings in interior designing

Although they are an integral part of a room’s structure, ceilings tend to be ignored until they start to cause problems or they are in need of decoration. Fortunately, major problems are few and usually the most that is required before repainting or papering is for a few hairline cracks to be filled in.
However, by simply adding molded decorative features to a ceiling, you can introduce a little style and distinction and perhaps bring harmony to a room.
Lowering a ceiling
There may be many good reasons for wanting to lower a ceiling, but the main ones are to make a room seem more cozy and easier to heat, and also to hide a ceiling that may be cracked or have surface-mounted water pipes. More than likely, the ceiling will be in a tall room and you will want to lower it by a significant amount.
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Painting Better Finishes in Surfaces with varnishes and stains in Interior designing and decoration

Interior designing and decoration with painting and finishing

Interior designing and decoration is not only with materials and products involved in it, but also the look and the mood it creates is all should happens. Painting is one of the best thing to make the interiors looks great and make the interiors complete. Finishing touches are the great to complete the interior designing and decoration.
If you want to produce more of a shiny finish, then you need to treat them with linseed oil and turpentine. Right Quarry tiles are a natural accompaniment for wood for a country-style kitchen. Below A mosaic splash back made from water-worn pebbles. Ceiling tiles Made from a variety of synthetic materials, ceiling tiles can add interesting textural qualities to a ceiling. These tiles are also a useful means of disguising a ceiling that is in poor condition. Expanded polystyrene tiles are the most common for domestic use, and are usually 30 cm or 60 cm square with chambered edges. They should be fixed with special tile adhesive, which must be spread over the whole ceiling.
Don’t use the “five-blob” method of fixing – in a fire, tiles melt away from the glue and drop from the ceiling. Modern tiles are self-extinguishing grade, so they are not a great fire risk. To calculate how many tiles you need, divide the squared area of one tile into the squared ceiling area. It is best to find the center of a room, as with floor tiling, and tile out from a center point. However, if there is a true, straight wall at the entrance to the room you could start there and work away. Fibrous tiles and gypsum plaster tiles are also available for ceiling work, but since they are much heavier they must be pinned to battens screwed to the ceiling. Find out which way the ceiling joists run and fix the battens at right angles, spaced so that the ceiling tiles meet at their centers.
Battens of 2.5 x 1.5 cm are enough for most tiles. If they are tongued and grooved, no cross-pieces are necessary, but with some square-edge tiles it may be best to fit cross-pieces between the battens to give support on all edges. Pin the tiles through the edges, or use special clips that are hidden by the adjoining tiles.
Painting ceiling tiles
If you wish to paint your tiles, the ideal time to do this is before you put them up. Bear in mind that the surface of non- ceramic tiles is not necessarily robust, and so you need to take a degree of care to avoid damaging them. Use either emulsion or special fire-retardant paint. ever use gloss pain, since this can contribute to the spread of flames should there be a fire.

Stains and varnishes

Articles made of wood need treating with a preservative or finish, not only to preserve and protect the surface but also to bring out the inherent beauty of the grain and the texture of the timber itself.
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Interior designing and decoration walls with plaster board settings

How to handle plaster boards on the wall interior designing and decoration?

Nail the sheets of plasterboard to the battens using plasterboard nails.
Locating joists
To locate the joists in a top-floor room, you need to climb up into the attic space and take a look. In a boarded attic or in an upstairs room, you need to note where the nails are that fix the floorboards to the underlying joists. If the boards are covered, tap the ceiling in the room below with your knuckles. A “solid” sound and feel indicates the presence of a joist. Alternatively, you will have to make a series of small test holes with a drill to find the joists and then make good afterwards. Supporting noggins can meet each other exactly or be slightly offset. Support it with an off cut while nailing. If a door frame is required, the top should be cut into the studs so that it is firmly supported.

  • Disguising the joints hide the joints between the boards, to use a smooth, professional surface at can then be painted or papered, the ,sowing materials are required: Next, apply jointing tape, pressing it down with a filling knife so that it is well embedded in the jointing compound. o Feather out the edges of the jointing compound with a moist sponge. Allow the compound to dry thoroughly. To fill the joints between the plaster- board, first apply jointing compound to the tapered edges using a steel float. Use the steel float once more to apply another band of jointing compound, 20 cm wide.

Finally, apply another band of jointing compound, this time 30 cm wide. 4 Screen walls Although they don’t offer much benefit in terms of sound insulation and, often, they cannot be used as structural partitions, screen walls are a quick and relatively inexpensive method of dividing up a large space. In this way, different uses can be made of what was formerly a single-activity room.
As well as the traditional Japanese style of screen wall, freestanding “flats” can be used, or a stud work and plasterboard partition can be constructed, which is capable of sup- porting bookshelves and pictures. Above Here, a traditional Japanese type screen is made out of black wooden frame and textured glass. Below Wood finish screen divides the space, and offers different ways of varying the arrangement of the room. • Archways can be an elegant solution to softening what otherwise could be an inappropriately stark or boxy room feature. For example, where a wall that formerly divided two rooms has been removed to create a larger, more open space, a wider arch than is strictly necessary will transform the boring square opening framed by the supporting rolled-steel joist resting on its piers. On a smaller, more intimate scale, an arched opening can be used to link two related rooms, such as a kitchen and dining room or a bedroom and bathroom or dressing room.
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How to make the room visibly larger by painting? Painting Tips and Guidance

Painting in interior designing and decoration

Painting can do magic in interior designing and decoration. If you use light color paints in the walls and the ceiling the room looks larger and and visibly more height than the original. The spacious rooms are not actually spacious, it’s all the talent of the interior designer‘s effort to make the room visibly larger than the original in interior designing.
Arches can also be used to decorate alcoves, recesses, and other openings. Wherever they are placed, they sponsor a sense of spaciousness. Right An archway leading from the kitchen to a neighboring dining room is both convenient and helps to create an illusion of extra space. Below A simple, unfussy arch lends a spacious feeling to a living room by linking it with the hallway beyond.
Types and styles in Interior designing
Whether made to measure or bought as a preformed kit of lightweight galvanized steel mesh, an arch can be fitted into virtually any opening in the home. It is advisable to choose the style carefully, however, since the shape will affect the amount of headroom the opening ends up with, and it may not look right in certain situations.
Elliptical, Spanish, and Tudor styles are ideal for wider openings, while Indian, Arabian and semicircular shapes are better suited to narrower doorways. Corner arches just round off the angle without greatly affecting the headroom anywhere, but the full, rounded shape of semicircular types eats into the headroom at the sides. Pointed arches are distinctive without taking any headroom from the middle of the opening. Once the style of the arch has been decided, the unplastered opening needs to be measured to establish the size of arch required. In an already finished room, this requires some hacking away of plaster to reveal the underlying brick or stud work.
Depending on its size the arch may be in two or more sections. If there are four sections, these are fixed individually to the wall, their beads being joined by lengths of connecting dowel. On a narrow wall, the two overlapping soffits which form the underside of the arch are fastened together with zinc-plated self-tapping screws or twists of galvanized binding wire. For a thicker wall– greater than 23 cm – the additional width is made up with a strip of mesh known as a soffit strip, which is fastened in the same way.

Plastering

Once it is securely fixed to the wall, the arch is ready for plastering. You can choose from a number of plasters: traditional two- coat lightweight plaster, one-coat plaster, or a number of premixed plasters. The latter tend to be more expensive if a large area is being covered, but they are more economical for small areas, involve less wastage, and – perhaps most importantly- are very easy to use.
With the two- coat method, a base coat of metal lathing plaster is first applied to the frame. The plaster is smoothed on with a trowel, using the solid bead as a guide to plaster depth and for the trowel. When th is coat is dry, a thin coat of finish plaster is applied in the same way. The result is a perfect shape and a professional finish. One-coat and premixed plaster also give good finishes. No matter which type of plaster you use, you must allow it to dry out thoroughly before attempting to decorate.

Wallpaper patterns

Wallpapering arch with lining paper is not complicated. The paper is applied to each face of the arch, sealing the edge by turning a margin of paper onto the under-side of the arch.
Interior Game offers Interior designing tips and guidance for the residence interiors, hotel interiors and restaurant interiors, palace interiors, commercial establishment interior designing and decoration, office interior designing and construction, showroom interior designing and construction with painting and furniture decoration, Wall paper fixing in interior designing for the homes and the commercial places, function halls, Auditorium interiors, seating arrangements etc. Painting and plastering works will be done by the company.
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Working With Plaster Board Tools Tips and Guidance for the perfect workout

Interior designing and decoration Plaster board working with tools and tips

The interior decoration tools required for building the frame are hammer, screwdriver, drill, spirit level, and plumb line and bob. A foot lifter, a rounded triangular section of timber cut from 25 x 5 cm softwood is useful for lifting the plasterboard off the floor as you fix it in place at the interior designing and decoration. Buy a ready made door from interior designing and decoration product store, if one is required, rather than try to construct one yourself with the guidance from interior game. Match the door frame and architrave to others in your home interiors. Plasterboard for interior designing and decoration is normally available in sheets 1.2 x 1.8 or 2.4 m long, in thicknesses of 12.5 mm.
The length of board needed depends on the height of the room to suit the theme of the interior designing. Thicker sheets are more expensive but require fewer supports. Working with plasterboard in interior designing requires few tools. A fine-toothed saw is needed to cut it, ivory-side up, although short lengths can be cut by scoring the ivory side deeply with a sharp knife and snapping the waste over a straightedge, cutting through the lining on the backing with the knife. In interior walls holes for light switches and socket outlets need to be marked on the plasterboard with a pencil and cut out with a pad saw or keyhole saw before being fixed in place on the walls of the interiors. Fix the plasterboard to the framework with galvanized plasterboard nails and hide the joints with joint tape and filler sold in interior designing stores. Constructing the framework First, mark on the floor exactly where the wall and door, if required, are to be located to make the interior designing and decoration of your home to be seen as a professional one.
A continuous length of timber, the sole plate, broken only for the door opening, is fixed along the center line. It is nailed or screwed to the floor at 60 cm centers, two fixings at a time. The sole plate can be fixed directly to floorboards, but securing it through to joists will make the structure stronger. Now fix the head plate to the ceiling. Using a spirit level against a straight piece of timber or a plumb line, mark the ceiling directly above the sole plate. Fix a continuous length of timber to the ceiling, driving through the ceiling into the joists. The head plate should be broken only if the ceiling is very low or the door exceptionally high.
Once the sole and head plates are in place, fix the vertical studs between them. Place these at 40 cm centers for 9.5 mm thick board or 60 cm for 12.5 mm thick board and at each side of any opening. Skew nail the studs, using two nails per fixing. For extra strength, fix noggings halfway up the studs, as well as where required for supporting heavy fixtures, such as a washbasin. Snap a string chalk line along the ceiling as a guide for fixing the head plate. Cut vertical studs precisely to length so that they are a tight fit when in place between the head and sole plates. Use long screws to fix the head plate securely into the ceiling joists supporting the plaster. Tap each stud into place with a hammer and check with a spirit level to make sure that each is vertical.
Cutting plasterboard for interior designing and decoration
Cut sheets of plasterboard with the paper lining face downward. Use a sharp, fine-toothed saw for long lengths of plasterboard. Alternatively, for short lengths you can use a sharp knife to score deep lines in the material and then snap off the waste over a straightedge. Cut out holes for switches with a pad saw or keyhole saw after first drilling a starting hole. Sand the cut edges lightly to remove any paper burrs. t e Use an off cut of timber to support a stud so that it does not slip while you nail it to the sole plate. Use glass fiber for sound and thermal insulation, especially between a bathroom and bedroom. o When fitting the plasterboard into place, slip a foot lifter made of wood under the board to raise it to the correct height .
Interior game offers interior designing and decoration tips for your home and office. Commercial interior designing and decoration guidance will be provided with acoustical soundproofing methods and product details. Contact us for the best interior designing tips and guidance.