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Kids Bedroom designing and decoration – Tips and guidance on Kids bedroom interior designing


NURSERY BEDDING & Ac deep. Use a single thickness of double thickness of lighter fabric. Of fabric for the back panel the finished overall piece. Cut the pockets making the length of a same as the width of the panel, 2.5cm(1 in) across the top for a ( and 12 mm (! in) turning across Cut sufficient binding or bias cut f the outer edge of the back pane. two loops from fabric or binding storage pockets from the corner cot or from two hooks on the back Turn under a double 12 mm across the top of each pocket. Turn under and press a 12 mm allowance across the lower edge, three strips across the front of the spacing them evenly apart. Ta down the sides and across the Topstitch in place.

 Mark the pocket across the strips, and tack marked lines. Topstitch in place, the end of the stitching at the pocket by sewing a few stitches in Position binding around the 01 the front panel, making a pleat at to form a neat miter. Position the strip for the corner loops between and fabric at each top corner. Stitch enclosing the sides of the pockets J across the end of the loops. Turn to the back of the panel and stitch edge in place by hand or machine.

 For deeper pockets, allow an (1 in) for each pocket along the strip. Turn and stitch the top hem: seam allowance under along the before stitching the strip in position stitching lines for each pocket deep tuck on either line. Make similar tucks 2cm end of the pocket strip. Tack the tucks in place. Position across the back panel and stitch before, so that the ends of the tuck by the base stitching. Remove bind the edge. Turn under 2.5cm down each long edge of the binding, position on the inner side of the quilted panel, with the raw edge of the binding 2.5cm from the edge of the panel, right sides together. Stitch along the fold line, making tucks to turn the corners.

Turn the binding over to the outside of the quilted panel and slip stitch in place by hand or machine just inside the previous line of stitching. 3 Make up ties by turning in 12 mm (t in) down each long edge and then folding in half. Press and stitch, turning in the ends. Stitch the center of each tie to the appropriate point on the outside of the binding by hand. Do not make the ties too long; if they were to come untied, they could become entwined around a baby’s neck.

 POCKET STORAGE A simple fabric pocket storage system, hung on the back of the door or at the foot of the cot, can be used to store baby-changing equipment or small items of clothing. Decide on a suitable overall size for the storage system: about 60cm wide by 100cm deep is suitable for most needs. Plan the size and number of pockets: the instructions here are for three rows of pockets across the width of the panel, 30cm. 
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Canopy designing and decoration – Interior designing skills tips and guidance

EMPIRE-STYLE CANOPY

These are draped over a pole which is hung from the ceiling at a right angle to the head of the bed. Measure the distance from the floor on one side of the bed over the pole to the floor on the opposite side of the bed. Add a total of 30cm for ease and hem allowance. Cut two lengths of fabric, one top fabric and one lining, and position them on top of each other, wrong sides together. Tack them together down each long edge. 

Mark the center of the panel at the position where the pole is, and stitch a casing through both layers of fabric. Bind the long raw edges together on either side of the opening. Add extra binding along each edge of the opening. 3 Fit the drape on to the pole and mark the hemline. Turn in the hem allowance at the ends of the panel and slip stitch together by hand. Make tie-backs to hold the canopy back against the wall on either side of the head of the bed.

 FITTINGBI BEDS & BEDU E NURSERY BEDDING & ACCESSORIES

 In a nursery, some accessories, though functional, can be decorative too and as they are on a small scale, you can tryout techniques such as applique or patchwork for the first time. Padded bumpers around the head of a cot keep out draughts and prevent babies from knocking their heads on the bars. A fabric storage pocket can hang from the end of the cot or changing table and hold all the paraphernalia for nappy changing. Series should be fresh and clean, so choose fabrics carefully, making sure they are washable.

QUILTED & FRILLED MOSES BASKET

Cut a paper template to fit the base of the basket, and another to fit the sides, making darts or tucks where necessary. Cut two base panels in fabric, allowing 12 mm U in) seams all round. Cut a piece of wadding the same size as the template. Sandwich the layers together and tack around the edges and across the center. Quilt by machine, working around or across the panel. The rows of stitching need not be closely spaced. Using the template as a pattern, make up side panels twice in fabric with a 12 mm (  in) seam allowance along the lower edge and 20 cm (8 in) top turning. Make up the same shape in wadding, with no seam allowance.

 Fit the wadding between the fabric side panels and tack along upper and lower edges. Quilt the sides of the lining: this is particularly effective if you make vertical rows of stitching, spaced 5-10cm a part, using a narrow zigzag stitch. Make a line of stitching around the top of the side panels, level with the top of the wadding. Press under a 12 mm turning around both layers of fabric. Stitch together close to the edge, then again 2 cm (4 in) from the first line of stitching to make a casing. Add a top stitched frill besides the casing.

 Fit the base to the side panels. Insert elastic into the casing to hold the lining in place. I f the basket has handles, mark and cu t a slot in both layers of fabric for the handles to slip through. Make two diagonal snips at each end of the slash, and press under a narrow turning all around the opening, or bind with a bias strip of contrasting fabric. Slipstitch folded edges together.

A FITTED COT of all cots is standard size it helpful to make your own the nursery, If you use stretch can be sure of a tight fit. 1 Measure up the cot mal cut out a single panel, ling, allowing the depth of around, plus an extra 15 en under the mattress and for n right side of the fabric facing the seam lines at each corner. Then remove the cover from stitch the seams. 

Trim the fabric allowance and neaten the raw 2 Turn under a 12 mm (! along all the raw edges. Strings in place, beginning and from each corner elasticated corners, take four U in) wide elastic, each 10cmthe elastic over the turnings a the sheet, and stitch in place stitch, stretching the elastic lace.
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Creating wonderful bedroom interior design with bed linen and pillow cases

HEADBOARDS & VALANCES

A SLIP-ON HEADBOARD COVER

Simple headboards are normally made from wooden panels, with slotted struts to attach to the base of the bed. Simple, slip-on covers are easy to make and can be removed for washing when necessary. If you want to cover a plain wooden board, use quilted fabric to give a soft, comfortable finish. If the headboard is already padded, you can use plain chintz. 

Measure the headboard and decide on suit- able finished dimensions for the cover. If the headboard is an elaborate shape, cut a template to make cutting out easier. Cur out front and back panels – allow 12 mm for seams, and up to 2.5 cm (1 in) for ease around the top and side edges, particularly when working with quilted fabric. Allow 2.5 cm along the lower edge. 

If the existing headboard is more than 5 cm (2 in) thick, cut a gusset to fit all around the sides and top edge, allowing 12 mm for seams and 2.5 cm (1 in) at each end. Cut piping to fit the seams around the sides and top edges, and binding to fit across both lower edges and across the gusset if there is one. Cut four ties, 5 cm (2 in) wide and 15 cm long.

Fit piping around the sides and top of the front panel, clipping into the binding to fit it around corners if necessary. Fit piping around the back panel as well if there is a gusset. Join front and back panels, right sides facing and raw edges matching, sandwiching piping in between. If there is a gusset, fit the front and back panels to each long edge. Turn right side our and press. To make up ties, fold and press under 12 mm U in) down each long edge, fold in half and press, then stitch down the center of each strip. Bind the lower edge of the cover, catching ties into the stitching about a third of the way along each long edge.

ADDING A RUCH Tightly fitted covers for pa can be decorated in instructions here are for a : ruched border, made from a fabric, top stitched around t the cover and edged with pit Cur out front and bad headboard, including piping. Gusset if required. For the [1 strips, 18 cm (7 in) wide, one for the top, allowing at It times the length for full need extra piping to fit of the ruched strip. Gather each long edge stitching and join the end side section at each end of Miter the corners. Mark a ( (6   in) inside the raw edge 0 panel. 

Position the piping arc line and tack in place. Tack t the ruched strip in place, taking seam allowance, with right facing piping and right side ( outer edge of the strip tow ,  frill, or turn right sides out and finish the lower edge by binding the raw edges together. A simple method of fixing a pelmet (valance) is to make it as for a window pelmet (valance) – see   104 – using curtain tape with hooks to attach it to the bed frame. You can make up three separate curtains – two for the sides and one for the foot of the bed.

MAKING A CANOPY A canopy with a frill is made in much the same way as a valance that sits on the mattress except that it is hung across the four poster. Choose two layers of a fabric such as voile, or similar light-diffusing fabric, for the canopy, with 12 mm seam allowance all round. No frill is needed across the head of the bed. Measure up and make three pelmets (valances) as before, but omit the casing allowance and gather the unfinished edge of each pelmet (valance). 

Fit them around one panel of the canopy with the right side of the valance facing the right side of the canopy. Distribute the fullness evenly, increasing fullness slightly at the corners. Tack in place. Lay the second panel of canopy fabric on top of the frilled panel and stitch together all around the edges. Continue the stitching around the top of the canopy, leaving a 50 cm opening at the center of the head of the bed. Trim seam allowances and turn right side out, then press.

 Top stitch through the voile and seam allowances, continuing top stitching across the opening at the top. If the four poster frame has finials at the top of the uprights, cut a hole in each corner of the voile canopy large enough to fit over the finials and neaten the edges by hand or with binding or piping. 
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Creating wonderful bedlinen- Pillow case design tips and guidance for your interiors

A PLAIN PILLOWCASE

 Cut out a strip of fabric, twice the length of the pillow plus a total of 30 cm (12 in) for turnings and tuck in. Allow 2 cm (l in) seam allowance down each long edge. At the tuck-in end, turn under and press 15 mm and then 10cm to make a broad border. Stitch in place and add cording or any other trim if required. At the tuck-in end, turn under and press a 15 mm double hem

PILLOWCASE WITH BORDER For a crisp, flat edging to a pillowcase, the front should be cut from one panel of fabric and the back cut from two panels, one to cover the main part of the pillow and the other to form a tuck-in. Cut out the front panel, allowing 6cm – or whatever width you want- all around for the border and seam allowance. Cut out the main back panel, omitting the border allowance down one short edge. Cut the tuck-in panel the same width as the main panel and 23 cm deep. Turn under a 2cm double hem down the short edge of the main back panel and on the smaller back panel.

If you want a more traditional fastening, make buttonholes along the hemmed edge of the main back panel. Position the main panel over the tuck-in, with the wrong side of the main panel facing the right side of the back panel so that they make up a panel the same size as the front panel of fabric. Tack together within the seam allowance where the panels overlap. Position the back on the front, right sides facing, and pin together all around the outer edge.

Stitch, taking a 1 cm seam allowance
 Stitch in place by machine and press a 15cm wide n 2 Fold the fabric in half so 1 edge of the border match: tuck-in, wrong sides together down each long edge, taking seam. Trim seams, press and Complete the French seam, t seam allowance as before.

Turn right side out and I all around the pillowcase, stitching 5 cm (2 in) inside the line to make a flat border. P trimming along the seam line sews on buttons or other fastening

MAKING BEDLINEN and stitch in place by machine. Turn under and press a 15cm(6 in) wide tuck-in. Fold the fabric in half so that the finished edge of the border matches the fold of the tuck-in, wrong sides together. Pin and stitch down each long edge, taking a 1cm seam. Trim scams, press and turn inside out. Complete the French seam, taking the same seam allowance as before. Turn right side out and press, turn right side out and press. Topstitch all around the pillowcase, positioning the stitching 5 cm (2 in) inside the previous seam line to make a flat border. Add cording or trimming along the seam line if required, and sew on buttons or other fastening.
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QUILTED and FRILLED MOSES BASKET- Interior designing and decoration by the experts in interiors

QUILTED & FRILLED MOSES BASKET

Cut a paper template to fit the base of the basket, and another to fit the sides, making darts or tucks where necessary. Cut two base panels in fabric, allowing 12 mm U in) seams all round. Cut a piece of wadding the same size as the template. Sandwich the layers together and tack around the edges and across the center. Quilt by machine, working around or across the panel. The rows of stitching need not be closely spaced. Using the template as a pattern, make up side panels twice in fabric with a 12 mm (  in) seam allowance along the lower edge and 20 cm (8 in) top turning. Make up the same shape in wadding, with no seam allowance.

 Fit the wadding between the fabric side panels and tack along upper and lower edges. Quilt the sides of the lining: this is particularly effective if you make vertical rows of stitching, spaced 5-10cm a part, using a narrow zigzag stitch. Make a line of stitching around the top of the side panels, level with the top of the wadding. Press under a 12 mm turning around both layers of fabric. Stitch together close to the edge, then again 2 cm (4 in) from the first line of stitching to make a casing. Add a top stitched frill besides the casing.

 Fit the base to the side panels. Insert elastic into the casing to hold the lining in place. I f the basket has handles, mark and cu t a slot in both layers of fabric for the handles to slip through. Make two diagonal snips at each end of the slash, and press under a narrow turning all around the opening, or bind with a bias strip of contrasting fabric. Slip stitch folded edges together.

A FITTED COT of all cots is standard size it helpful to make your own the nursery, If you use stretch can be sure of a tight fit. 1 Measure up the cot mal cut out a single panel, ling, allowing the depth of around, plus an extra 15 en under the mattress and for n right side of the fabric facing the seam lines at each corner. Then remove the cover from stitch the seams. Trim the fabric allowance and neaten the raw 2 Turn under a 12 mm (! along all the raw edges. Strings in place, beginning and from each corner elasticated corners, take four U in) wide elastic, each 10cm the elastic over the turnings a the sheet, and stitch in place stitch, stretching the elastic lace.
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FITTING BI BEDS & BED LINEN NURSERY BEDDING & ACCESSORIES – Interior designing and decoration tips and guidance

EMPIRE-STYLE CANOPY

These are draped over a pole which is hung from the ceiling at a right angle to the head of the bed. Measure the distance from the floor on one side of the bed over the pole to the floor on the opposite side of the bed. Add a total of 30cm for ease and hem allowance. Cut two lengths of fabric, one top fabric and one lining, and position them on top of each other, wrong sides together.

 Tack them together down each long edge. 2 Mark the center of the panel at the position where the pole is, and stitch a casing through both layers of fabric. Bind the long raw edges together on either side of the opening. Add extra binding along each edge of the opening. 3 Fit the drape on to the pole and mark the hemline. Turn in the hem allowance at the ends of the panel and slip stitch together by hand. Make tie-backs to hold the canopy back against the wall on either side of the head of the bed.

 FITTING BI BEDS & BED LINEN NURSERY BEDDING & ACCESSORIES

 In a nursery, some accessories, though functional, can be decorative too and as they are on a small scale, you can tryout techniques such as applique or patchwork for the first time. Padded bumpers around the head of a cot keep out droughts and prevent babies from knocking their heads on the bars. A fabric storage pocket can hang from the end of the cot or changing table and hold all the paraphernalia for nappy changing. Series should be fresh and clean, so choose fabrics carefully, making sure they are washable. 
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Headboard Cover designing and decoration – tips and guidance in interior designing

A SLIP-ON HEADBOARD COVER

Simple headboards are normally made from wooden panels, with slotted struts to attach to the base of the bed. Simple, slip-on covers are easy to make and can be removed for washing when necessary. If you want to cover a plain wooden board, use quilted fabric to give a soft, comfortable finish. If the headboard is already padded, you can use plain chintz. Measure the headboard and decide on suit- able finished dimensions for the cover. If the headboard is an elaborate shape, cut a template to make cutting out easier. 

Cur out front and back panels – allow 12 mm for seams, and up to 2.5 cm (1 in) for ease around the top and side edges, particularly when working with quilted fabric. Allow 2.5cm along the lower edge. If the existing headboard is more than 5 cm (2 in) thick, cut a gusset to fit all around the sides and top edge, allowing 12 mm for seams and 2.5 cm (1 in) at each end. Cut piping to fit the seams around the sides and top edges, and binding to fit across both lower edges and across the gusset if there is one. Cut four ties, 5 cm (2 in) wide and 15cm long.

Fit piping around the sides and top of the front panel, clipping into the binding to fit it around corners if necessary. Fit piping around the back panel as well if there is a gusset. Join front and back panels, right sides facing and raw edges matching, sandwiching piping in between. If there is a gusset, fit the front and back panels to each long edge. Turn right side our and press. To make up ties, fold and press under 12 mm U in) down each long edge, fold in half and press, then stitch down the center of each strip. Bind the lower edge of the cover, catching ties into the stitching about a third of the way along each long edge.

ADDING A RUCH Tightly fitted covers for pa can be decorated in instructions here are for a : ruched border, made from a fabric, top stitched around t the cover and edged with pit Cur out front and bad headboard, including piping. Gusset if required. For the [1 strips, 18 cm (7 in) wide, one for the top, allowing at It times the length for full need extra piping to fit of the ruched strip. Gather each long edge stitching and join the end side section at each end of Miter the corners. Mark a ( (6   in) inside the raw edge 0 panel. Position the piping arc line and tack in place. 

Tack t the ruched strip in place, taking seam allowance, with right facing piping and right side ( outer edge of the strip tow ,  frill, or turn right sides out and finish the lower edge by binding the raw edges together. A simple method of fixing a pelmet (valance) is to make it as for a window pelmet (valance) – see   104 – using curtain tape with hooks to attach it to the bed frame. You can make up three separate curtains – two for the sides and one for the foot of the bed.

MAKING A CANOPY A canopy with a frill is made in much the same way as a valance that sits on the mattress except that it is hung across the four poster. Choose two layers of a fabric such as voile, or similar light-diffusing fabric, for the canopy, with 12 mm seam allowance all round. No frill is needed across the head of the bed. Measure up and make three pelmets (valances) as before, but omit the casing allowance and gather the unfinished edge of each pelmet (valance). Fit them around one panel of the canopy with the right side of the valance facing the right side of the canopy. Distribute the fullness evenly, increasing fullness slightly at the corners. 

Tack in place. Lay the second panel of canopy fabric on top of the frilled panel and stitch together all around the edges. Continue the stitching around the top of the canopy, leaving a 50cm opening at the center of the head of the bed. Trim seam allowances and turn right side out, then press. Top stitch through the voile and seam allowances, continuing top stitching across the opening at the top. If the four poster frame has finials at the top of the uprights, cut a hole in each corner of the voile canopy large enough to fit over the finials and neaten the edges by hand or with binding or piping. 
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Making Bed Linen and Pillowcase in interior designing and decoration tips and guidance

PILLOWCASE

Cut out a strip of fabric, twice the length of the pillow plus a total of 30cm for turnings and tuck in. Allow 2 cm seam allowance down each long edge. At the tuck-in end, turn under and press 15 mm and then 10 cm (4 in) to make a broad border. Stitch in place and add cording or any other trim if required. At the tuck-in end, turn under and press a 15 mm double hem.

PILLOWCASE WITH BORDER For a crisp, flat edging to a pillowcase, the front should be cut from one panel of fabric and the back cut from two panels, one to cover the main part of the pillow and the other to form a tuck-in. Cut out the front panel, allowing 6 cm or whatever width you want – all around for the border and seam allowance. Cut out the main back panel, omitting the border allowance down one short edge. Cut the tuck-in panel the same width as the main panel and 23cm deep. Turn under a 2cm double hem down the short edge of the main back panel and on the smaller back panel.

 If you want a more traditional fastening, make buttonholes along the hemmed edge of the main back panel. Position the main panel over the tuck-in, with the wrong side of the main panel facing the right side of the back panel so that they make up a panel the same size as the front panel of fabric. Tack together within the seam allowance where the panels overlap. Position the back on the front, right sides facing, and pin together all around the outer edge, Stitch, taking a 1 cm seam allowance.

MAKING BEDLINEN and stitch in place by machine. Turn under and press a 15cm(6 in) wide tuck-in. Fold the fabric in half so that the finished edge of the border matches the fold of the tuck-in, wrong sides together. Pin and stitch down each long edge, taking a 1cm seam. Trim scams, press and turn inside out. Complete the French seam, taking the same seam allowance as before. Turn right side out and press, turn right side out and press. Top stitch all around the pillowcase, positioning the stitching 5 cm (2 in) inside the previous seam line to make a flat border. Add cording or trimming along the seam line if required, and sew on buttons or other fastening.
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Sofa – Cushion Covers and Window curtain fabric stitching and pleats design in interior design and decoration tips and guidance

For the stitching lines of each tuck into the fabric, following to wide pleats, fold the fabric so stitching lines come together. Stitch each tuck in turn, t foot of the machine or t markings as a guide when stitching. There is no need to the threads as they will be hems. Trim the fabric to tl ensuring the tucks are position medium length and width zigzag stitch and fit the cording foot on the machine. (This has a hole to guide the cording thread under the needle.) 

Mark the position of the cording with chalk or a line of tacking threads on the right side of the fabric. Thread the end of the cord into the foot and position the edge of the work under the foot of the machine. Stitch along the marked line, feeding the cord under the foot, so that the zigzag stitch holds the cord in place. Two parallel lines of cording, 6 mm (i in) apart, are a simple, effective touch.

TUCKING Decide on a suitable width and spacing for the rucks: they may be stitched close to the folded edge of the fabric for a very narrow ruck (pin rucks), or up to about 15 mm from the fold for a wider tuck. Calculate the total number of tucks and allow twice the width of each tuck when working out how much fabric you will need. 

Add an extra allowance so that you can trim the panel accurately when making up the item. Mark out the rucks across the top and lower edge of the area to be stitched. With large areas, such as a duvet cover, mark across the center of the fabric as well. For pin rucks, mark the center of each pleat.
For wider rucks, mark the stitching lines of each tuck. Press the pleats into the fabric, following the marks. With wide pleats, fold the fabric so that the marked stitching lines come together. Stitch each tuck in turn, using the presser foot of the machine or the throat plate markings as a guide when positioning the stitching.

 There is no need to finish the ends of the threads as they will be enclosed in seams or hems. Trim the fabric to the required size, ensuring the rucks are positioned centrally.

A DUVET COVER 1 Measure the duvet to be covered and cut out two panels of fabric, allowing 5 cm for seams and ease all round. Decorate the top panel of fabric before trimming to size. If you have to join widths of a patterned fabric for the top panel, position a full width down the center of the cover and strips of equal size down either side. Join widths with a flat fell seam, slip-tacking first if there is a difficult pattern match. 

Join the two panels of fabric using a French seam. Across the lower edge of the cover, end the seams 20 cm in from each corner to make an opening for inserting the duvet. Press the folds of the seam allowance across the opening to provide the hem. Turn the cover inside out again. Across the opening, position the popper tape (or whatever fastening you wish to use to contain the duvet – Velcro strips, press studs, buttons etc. and cover or hem the raw edges. 

Ensure that the opposite halves of the opening match and secure the fastening in place. Turn right side out and press. 
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Making Pillow covers in interior designing and decoration – Tips and guidance

A PLAIN PILLOWCASE

 Cut out a strip of fabric, twice the length of the pillow plus a total of 30 cm (12 in) for turnings and tuck in. Allow 2 cm (l in) seam allowance down each long edge. At the tuck-in end, turn under and press 15 mm and then 10cm to make a broad border. Stitch in place and add cording or any other trim if required. At the tuck-in end, turn under and press a 15 mm double hem.

PILLOWCASE WITH BORDER For a crisp, flat edging to a pillowcase, the front should be cut from one panel of fabric and the back cut from two panels, one to cover the main part of the pillow and the other to form a tuck-in. Cut out the front panel, allowing 6cm – or whatever width you want- all around for the border and seam allowance. Cut out the main back panel, omitting the border allowance down one short edge. Cut the tuck-in panel the same width as the main panel and 23 cm deep. Turn under a 2cm double hem down the short edge of the main back panel and on the smaller back panel.

If you want a more traditional fastening, make buttonholes along the hemmed edge of the main back panel. Position the main panel over the tuck-in, with the wrong side of the main panel facing the right side of the back panel so that they make up a panel the same size as the front panel of fabric. Tack together within the seam allowance where the panels overlap. Position the back on the front, right sides facing, and pin together all around the outer edge.

Stitch, taking a 1 cm seam allowance

 Stitch in place by machine and press a 15cm wide n 2 Fold the fabric in half so 1 edge of the border match: tuck-in, wrong sides together down each long edge, taking seam. Trim seams, press and Complete the French seam, t seam allowance as before.

Turn right side out and I all around the pillowcase, stitching 5 cm (2 in) inside the line to make a flat border. P trimming along the seam line sews on buttons or other fastening