A SKIRT WITH INVERTED PLEATS – Interior Cushion ideas and tips for the home interiors

 A SKIRT WITH INVERTED PLEATS

 This method of measuring and folding pleats in a skirt gives a crisp finish. It can be used on a simple arm less chair, with pleats falling from each corner of the seat to the floor, or on a skirt around the lower edge of an easy chair or sofa. There is no need to hem the bottom as the fabric is doubled. Cut a strip of fabric for each side of the skirt, adding 11 cm at each end for the pleat and scam allowances. The fabric should be twice the depth of the finished skirt, plus a 2.5cm seam allowance. 

For three of the corners, cut an underlay of fabric 22 cm wide, and the same depth as the main part of the skirt. For the corner where the opening is to be, make the underlay from two separate panels, allowing an extra seam allowance where the fastening is to be attached. Fold the side panels in half along the line of the hem, wrong sides together, and press. Repeat for the underlays.

Turn under and press the 11 cm turnings at each end of the side strips. But the folded edges of the side panels together, and position the turnings over the underlays, so that raw edges match. Pin and stitch the raw edges together, taking 12 mm scams, and trim seam allowances. Neaten raw edges together. Leave one seam not stitched at the corner where the opening is positioned.

Tack across the top of the pleats. Fit the skirt around the lower edge of the scat panel or cover, and stitch in place. Layer the seam allowances and press them upwards. Fit the zip or hook-and-eye tape down the opening. On a simple arm less chair, continue the fastening down the opening in the skirt. On an easy chair or sofa with an applied, short skirt, fit the fastening to the main part of the chair, and turn under and neaten the allowances down the center of the corner pleat. 

Bedroom Designing and decoration – Bed Linen designing tips and guidance

 
A COT BUMPER Use washable fabrics and quilt the bumpers with heavyweight polyester wadding. The instructions here are for a bound edge – but bumpers can equally well be finished with a frilled or piped edge. Measure across the inside of the top and half way down the sides of the cot and Decide where the ties should be positioned – the top edge of the bumper should be tied to corner posts and to bars half way down the side of the cot. If the cot has a solid headboard, make long ties which can fasten around the back of the headboard. 
 
Cut main panels of fabric and a layer of wadding to the finished measurements. Join widths of fabric with flat seams and the wadding with a lapped seam if necessary. Cut a 15cm wide strip to bind the edges of the bumper; these strips need not be cut on the bias since they do not have to be eased around curves. Cut four ties, 20cm long and the 5cm wide. 
 
Sandwich the wadding between the two panels of fabric, right sides outwards; pin, then tack together all around the edges. Tack at intervals to hold the layers in place while you stitch the quilting – tack along the length of the bumper for vertical stitching, or up and down for horizontal quilting. 
 
Turn under 2.5cm down each long edge of the binding, position on the inner side of the quilted panel, with the raw edge of the binding 2.5cm from the edge of the panel, right sides together. Stitch along the fold line, making tucks to turn the corners.
 
Turn the binding over to the outside of the quilted panel and slipstitch in place by hand or machine just inside the previous line of stitching. Make up ties by turning in 12 mm (! in) down each long edge and then folding in half, press and stitch, turning in the ends. Stitch the center of each tie to the appropriate point on the outside of the binding by hand. Do not make the ties too long; if they were to come untied, they could become entwined around a baby’s neck. 
 
POCKET STORAGE A simple fabric pocket storage system, hung on the back of the door or at the foot of the cot, can be used to store baby-changing equipment or small items of clothing. Decide on a suitable overall size for the storage system: about 60cm wide by 100cm (40 in) deep is suitable for most needs. Plan the size and number of pockets: the instructions here are for three rows of pockets across the width of the panel, 30cm. 

UPHOLSTERY TECHNIQUES and covers – Interior furniture designing and edcoration

 UPHOLSTERY TECHNIQUES and covers

Shape generally most flowing the’ 50 that either way. Stitch it in place with a row of top stitching, angling the needle as you stitch so that the lines of stitching are almost continuous on both sides of the roll. The stitches should hold the roll firmly in place over the edge of the frame. The next step is to use more stuffing to pad the center of the chair inside the roll, holding it to the scrim with bridle ties. Then cover with calico, wadding and the top cover as before. 

When covering a chair with an upholstered back and or arms, always start with the seat section of the upholstery, stretching the webbing to hold padding or springs. Normally, the back (and arm) sections have a hessian backing only: no webbing is needed to hold the stuffing in place. Leave the hessian backing not tracked across the lower back edge when you fit it.   

This enables you to fit the seat covering to the back of the back rail. Fit webbing and springing to the seat, then fit hessian over the springs. Fit the stuffing and form a rolled edge on the seat of the chair, then finish the calico cover, wadding and main cover on the seat, nailing them firmly to the outside of the back rail. Fit stuffing to the back of the chair, using extra bridle ties, and finish with calico over the front.

To neaten the back of the chair, you will need a panel of fabric shaped to fit, with a 2.5 cm turning all round. Press under the turning and slip stitch the panel in place around the sides and top of the chair. Fit the cover to the back of the chair as for the calico cover. To anchor the stuffing to the frame, knock tacks halfway into the frame, and then tie loops of twine between the nails. Knock the nails in to hold the twine and tease the horsehair under the loops in the same way as described for bridle ties. The stuffing is held in place with scrim tacked to the frame.   

You will have to make pleats around the top of a shaped arm or back. The roll of the arm or back is stitched in place as for the seat, and more horsehair laid over the depressions before the calico cover is fitted. The front arm gusset has to be slip stitched in place in the same way as for the back of the chair.

Hanging Acoustical Baffles which are fitted to the ceilings or walls In Interior designing and decoration

Hanging Acoustical Baffles to control sound in interiors

Hanging Acoustical Baffles which are fitted to the ceilings or walls are meant to reduce the level of sound which is airborne in interiors. Sound Baffles serve as an essential tool for noise reduction, noise pollution, and also for noise reverberation. This is due to the reason that both the sides of the baffle are open to the space. Therefore they can absorb sound from all sides. The baffles are mounted with hanging system and can be suspended either horizontally or vertically from the ceiling. Acoustic Baffles are suited for ceilings where heating systems and light fittings should not get blocked.

Types of Hanging Acoustical Baffles for noise control

Echo Eliminators are Hanging Acoustical Baffles for eliminating echo and are made from Bonded Acoustical Cotton (B.A.C.). It can be recycled and does not contain fiberglass for echo friendly interior designing and decoration. They are durable, cost effective, lightweight, efficient and multi-purpose. There are about ten colors to choose from.
In interior designing, Fabric Wrapped Acoustical Baffles are wrapped with designer fabrics for decorative interiors. Hard side baffles are made from two panels of fiberglass board having edges and faces covered with a fabric or vinyl finish. Fabric wrapped baffles are lightweight and have different shapes like round, square, pencil edge, and bevel, available in dimensions up to 4 ft. x 10 ft to make the interior designing a colorful and professional one. They are mounted with D-rings and come with a wide range of colors.
in interior decoration Poly wrap Baffles are made from Polyethylene which is heat-sealed having Fiberglass fill. They are available in standard black and white colors.
Sanitary Acoustic Baffles have the core encapsulated in reinforced Mylar film for interior designing soundproofing. The white face helps to improve illumination by reflecting light to make the interiors bright and colorful. It is temperature and weather resistant. Sanitary Acoustic Baffles are ideal for industries where weather resistant and cleanable surfaces are required to bring the interior heat under control, places needing high sound reduction, and other environments requiring really clean surroundings. They are generally white in color for interiors.
In Interiors, Sailcloth and Vinyl Encapsulated Acoustical Baffles have fiberglass core with Sailcloth or Polyvinyl Chloride Film outside. They are available in PVC film of 9 colors to suit any interior designing and decoration color theme.
In Interior designing and decoration, Whisper wave Melamine Baffles are made from melamine foam. They can be installed with corkscrew hangers, if it is in the field or with ceiling mounted cable or on wall to wall cable. It is also possible to align them parallel or every alternate baffle can be rotated to 90 degrees. Whisper wave Baffles are available as natural white and grey but also can be got as painted or coated.

Hanging Acoustic Baffle Accessories for interior designing and decoration

Wall and ceiling construction assemblies are vary significantly for interior designing. The following general tools are needed. Crimping Tools, Wire Rope Cables and Crimps, Eye Bolts and Mounting Plates, Hollow Wall Toggle Bolts, Cable Ratchet Stretchers, Tool for Tee-Bar Mounting Clips, Turnbuckles and Tee-Bar Mounting Clips

Applications of Hanging Acoustic Baffles in interior designing and decoration

Hanging Acoustic Baffles are recommended for interior Ceiling Baffles for absorbing echo, sound and noise reduction in manufacturing and industrial facilities, warehouses, gymnasiums, auditoriums, offices, call centers, entertainment facilities, computer rooms, gun ranges, band rooms and studios.
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Flanking Transmission Acoustical engineers use the term flanking transmission In Interior designing and decoration

Flanking Transmission In Soundproofing

Acoustical engineers use the term flanking transmission wherein the passage of sound is around, under, or over the top of the primary partition that separates two spaces. In residential buildings that have multiple families flanking sound transmission can be particularly troublesome. For guarding against flanking transmission the best time is during the design and construction phase of the dwelling. Just defining a high performance wall between close by dwelling spaces does not guarantee privacy and sound isolation upon occupancy. Interior Game, India offer free noise control consultations for before construction and also post-construction besides supplying all of the products required for achieving demanded sound insulation.

Sound Isolation

Those who buy condominiums, town houses, and other multi-family residences must not stop from asking questions regarding the characteristics of sound isolation of their new residence. Besides, their proposed residence must be inspected during the phase of construction for ensuring that the workmanship quality is in agreement with good noise control procedures. After all, a new home is one among the most costly investments in a lifetime a person or couple will make. Ask the builder or architect what steps have been taken for insuring sound privacy from your future neighbors or noise from outside the building intruding. It should not be assumed that simply because the architect has given the specification of high performance windows, walls, and floor/ceiling assemblies the workmanship and materials will result in agreement with the results anticipated. Ultimately isolating sound in your home may be dependent on the workman who installs the materials on the job who may know less or nothing about basic noise control techniques unless the right direction and supervision is given to him.

Building Codes for acoustics

There are minimum standards for controlling noise between occupied residential units for most building codes. Upon completing the building it may be needed that the building inspection department issues a certificate of occupancy, which means that the minimum building code standards are met by the building including sound isolation. Many building inspectors are not familiar with techniques of noise control and their inspection departments do not impose the necessity for validation. By contacting India in advance a bit of sound prevention can be done and can save expense and grief later on.

Typical Flanking Sound Transmission Pathways Can Include

1. Ceilings – Above and Through the Ceiling Space
2. Windows
3. Floors – Through Floor and Floor Joist Space
4. Fixtures & Outlets – Telephone Outlets, Light Switches, and Recessed Lighting Fixtures
5. Structural Joints – Through Wall and Ceiling Junctures, Perimeter Joints at Wall and Floor
6. Shared Structural Building Components – Floor Boards, Continuous Drywall Partitions, Floor Joints, Cement Block Walls, and Continuous Concrete Floors,
7. Around the End of the Partition Through the Adjacent Wall
8. Plumbing Chases – Junctures between the Walls and at the Exterior Wall Juncture or Floor Slab Above
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Keeping Sound In Gyms and specialty fitness centers are appearing everywhere

Fitness Acoustics: Keeping Sound In (and Out)

Gyms and specialty fitness centers are appearing everywhere – next to office suites, under apartment complexes, and in strip malls in dense cities. The noise they create, whether from clanking weights, loud music, or dozens of spinning stationary bikes is causing a lot of noise complaints, and even some fitness studios are forced to move into isolated industrial areas. Turning the volume down on the sound system is the most courteous and obvious thing to do, but for making the neighbors happy this solution may not be sufficiently enough. Conversely, quieter spaces like yoga studios may want to keep out noise, whether from the restaurant next door or the street traffic.

Solving Sound Challenges with Soundproofing

How can gyms and fitness studios keep noise in or out? Soundproofing is needed. The goal of soundproofing is isolating the air and structure of the room from the surrounding spaces. Effort is taken in decreasing the sound energy transmission through the building.
The exact noise solution is dependent on the kind of structure, the kind of transmission of sound into the nearby spaces, and also whether the studio is being remodeled, retrofitted, or built from the start. Anyhow, something has to be done by owners in each of the three soundproofing categories:

Increasing airborne sound isolation

All the air leaks need to be sealed in the ceilings, walls, and floor, like those around electrical boxes, doors, light fixtures, and heating and cooling vents.
Increasing structural sound isolation – This can be done by decoupling and damping ceiling, wall, and floor assemblies with stud isolator or resilient channel, using underlays beneath the floor, and Elasto-metric sheet rock glue.
Increasing structural mass – Ceilings, walls, and floors must be given denser framing and addition of layers of sheet rock.

Sound Blocking Solutions

If an owner is on the lookout for an easy fix for blocking out sound without needing to do any major remodeling, there are some different options:
Door Seal Kit – An excellent addition to solid core doors, these surface-mounted adjustable seals are easy to install, inexpensive, and have a big impact on reduction of noise.
AcoustiBlox Quiet Mat – This is a vibration-reduction pad of heavy-duty that’s cost-effective and easy to use. It can serve as a finished floor surface covering a fitness studio or an entire gym, it is great to use this mat under machines – and its textured surface helps prevent unwanted movement or slipping.
Duct V-Max – Since ducts carry too much vibration, this light in weight vibration damper for duct work lessen rattling noises in air ducts.
It’s important for both landlords and tenants to understand that, even though they can lessen noise in studios and gyms, no level of soundproofing could practically ever lessen the vibrations and sounds of 600 lb. tractor-tire flips falling onto the floor. However, there are many ways to start creating a more pleasant environment for both gym customers and neighbors.
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A FITTED COT SHEET – How it works in interior designing and decoration – Tips and guidance to DIY.

 Using the template as a pattern, make up side panels twice in fabric with a 12 mm (1 in) seam allowance along the lower edge and 20 cm (8 in) top turning. Make up the same shape in wadding, with no seam allowance. Fit the wadding between the fabric side panels and tack along upper and lower edges. Quilt the sides of the lining: this is particularly effective if you make vertical rows of stitching, spaced 5-10 cm apart, using a narrow zigzag stitch. 

Make a line of stitching around the top of the side panels, level with the top of the wadding. Press under a 12 mm (t in) turning around both layers of fabric. Stitch together close to the edge, then again 2 cm (4 in) from the first line of stitching to make a casing. Add a top stitched frill besides the casing. 3 Fit the base to the side panels. Insert elastic into the casing to hold the lining in place. If the basket has handles, mark and cut a slot in both layers of fabric for the handles to slip through. Make two diagonal snips at each end of the slash, and press under a narrow turning all around the opening, or bind with a bias strip of contrasting fabric. Slip stitch folded edges together.

A FITTED COT SHEET

Not all cots are standard sizes, so you may find it helpful to make your own fitted sheets for the nursery. If you use stretch toweling, you can be sure of a tight fit. Measure up the cot mattress. Cut out a single panel of stretch towel- ling, allowing the depth of the mattress all around, plus an extra 15cm to wrap under the mattress and for turning. With the right side of the fabric facing the mattress, pin the seam lines at each corner. Tack the seams, then remove the cover from the mattress and stitch the seams. Trim the fabric from the seam allowance and neaten the raw edges together. 2 Turn under a 12 mm (1 in) double hem along all the raw edges. 

Stitch the turnings in place, beginning and ending stitching 8 cm from each corner seam. To make elasticated corners, take four pieces of 6 mm wide elastic, each 10 cm (4 in) long. Pin the elastic over the turnings at each corner of the sheet, and stitch in place with a zigzag stitch, stretching the elastic as you stitch.

A COT BUMPER Use washable fabrics and quilt the bumpers with heavyweight polyester wadding. The instructions here are for a bound edge – but bumpers can equally well be finished with a frilled or piped edge. Measure across the inside of the top and half way down the sides of the cot and Decide where the ties should be positioned – the top edge of the bumper should be tied to corner posts and to bars half way down the side of the cot. If the cot has a solid headboard, make long ties which can fasten around the back of the headboard.  

Cut main panels of fabric and a layer of wadding to the finished measurements. Join widths of fabric with flat seams and the wadding with a lapped seam if necessary. Cut a 15 cm wide strip to bind the edges of the bumper; these strips need not be cut on the bias since they do not have to be eased around curves. Cut four ties, 20 cm long and the 5 cm wide. Sandwich the wadding between the two panels of fabric, right sides outwards; pin, then tack together all around the edges. Tack at intervals to hold the layers in place while you stitch the quilting – tack along the length of the bumper for vertical stitching, or up and down for horizontal quilting. 

Turn under 2.5 cm down each long edge of the binding, position on the inner side of the quilted panel, with the raw edge of the binding 2.5 cm from the edge of the panel, right sides together. Stitch along the fold line, making tucks to turn the corners.

Turn the binding over to the outside of the quilted panel and slip stitch in place by hand or machine just inside the previous line of stitching. Make up ties by turning in 12 mm (! in) down each long edge and then folding in half, press and stitch, turning in the ends. Stitch the center of each tie to the appropriate point on the outside of the binding by hand. Do not make the ties too long; if they were to come untied, they could become entwined around a baby’s neck. 

POCKET STORAGE A simple fabric pocket storage system, hung on the back of the door or at the foot of the cot, can be used to store baby-changing equipment or small items of clothing. Decide on a suitable overall size for the storage system: about 60 cm wide by 100 cm (40 in) deep is suitable for most needs. Plan the size and number of pockets: the instructions here are for three rows of pockets across the width of the panel, 30cm. 

QUILTED and FRILLED MOSES BASKET- Interior designing and decoration by the experts in interiors

QUILTED & FRILLED MOSES BASKET

Cut a paper template to fit the base of the basket, and another to fit the sides, making darts or tucks where necessary. Cut two base panels in fabric, allowing 12 mm U in) seams all round. Cut a piece of wadding the same size as the template. Sandwich the layers together and tack around the edges and across the center. Quilt by machine, working around or across the panel. The rows of stitching need not be closely spaced. Using the template as a pattern, make up side panels twice in fabric with a 12 mm (  in) seam allowance along the lower edge and 20 cm (8 in) top turning. Make up the same shape in wadding, with no seam allowance.

 Fit the wadding between the fabric side panels and tack along upper and lower edges. Quilt the sides of the lining: this is particularly effective if you make vertical rows of stitching, spaced 5-10cm a part, using a narrow zigzag stitch. Make a line of stitching around the top of the side panels, level with the top of the wadding. Press under a 12 mm turning around both layers of fabric. Stitch together close to the edge, then again 2 cm (4 in) from the first line of stitching to make a casing. Add a top stitched frill besides the casing.

 Fit the base to the side panels. Insert elastic into the casing to hold the lining in place. I f the basket has handles, mark and cu t a slot in both layers of fabric for the handles to slip through. Make two diagonal snips at each end of the slash, and press under a narrow turning all around the opening, or bind with a bias strip of contrasting fabric. Slip stitch folded edges together.

A FITTED COT of all cots is standard size it helpful to make your own the nursery, If you use stretch can be sure of a tight fit. 1 Measure up the cot mal cut out a single panel, ling, allowing the depth of around, plus an extra 15 en under the mattress and for n right side of the fabric facing the seam lines at each corner. Then remove the cover from stitch the seams. Trim the fabric allowance and neaten the raw 2 Turn under a 12 mm (! along all the raw edges. Strings in place, beginning and from each corner elasticated corners, take four U in) wide elastic, each 10cm the elastic over the turnings a the sheet, and stitch in place stitch, stretching the elastic lace.

FITTING BI BEDS & BED LINEN NURSERY BEDDING & ACCESSORIES – Interior designing and decoration tips and guidance

EMPIRE-STYLE CANOPY

These are draped over a pole which is hung from the ceiling at a right angle to the head of the bed. Measure the distance from the floor on one side of the bed over the pole to the floor on the opposite side of the bed. Add a total of 30cm for ease and hem allowance. Cut two lengths of fabric, one top fabric and one lining, and position them on top of each other, wrong sides together.

 Tack them together down each long edge. 2 Mark the center of the panel at the position where the pole is, and stitch a casing through both layers of fabric. Bind the long raw edges together on either side of the opening. Add extra binding along each edge of the opening. 3 Fit the drape on to the pole and mark the hemline. Turn in the hem allowance at the ends of the panel and slip stitch together by hand. Make tie-backs to hold the canopy back against the wall on either side of the head of the bed.

 FITTING BI BEDS & BED LINEN NURSERY BEDDING & ACCESSORIES

 In a nursery, some accessories, though functional, can be decorative too and as they are on a small scale, you can tryout techniques such as applique or patchwork for the first time. Padded bumpers around the head of a cot keep out droughts and prevent babies from knocking their heads on the bars. A fabric storage pocket can hang from the end of the cot or changing table and hold all the paraphernalia for nappy changing. Series should be fresh and clean, so choose fabrics carefully, making sure they are washable. 

Bed Linen creates a great interiors – interior designing and decoration – Tips and guidance

When making your own bed linen, where possible apply any decorative touches before finishing the seams. Decoration is best limited to borders and edgings (it is uncomfortable to sleep on when used elsewhere). Use full width fabric for the reverse of the duvet and bottom sheet to avoid uncomfortable seams. 

Cording and pin tucks are described here – other finishes are described elsewhere: applique, frills and piping. Sheets and duvet covers should be made up in sheeting width fabric – normally 228 cm wide. If you want to use a print which is not available in sheeting width, just use it for the parts of the bed linen that will show – the borders all around the pillowcase or along the top edge of the duvet, for example.

Choose washable fabrics. Linen is luxurious, but demands time and effort to keep it at its best; cotton or a cotton/polyester mix are more practical alternatives. Where possible, use enclosed seams to prevent fraying during laundering. CORDING Use fine cotton cord, in white or a color to match or contrast with the fabric. Thread the machine with an appropriate color: if you use contrast cording, use a contrast color in the needle; the bobbin thread can be matched to the fabric so that the stitching is less obvious on the underside. Set the sewing machine to a medium length and width zigzag stitch and fit the cording foot on the machine. 

This has a hole to guide the cording thread under the needle.

Mark the position of the cording with chalk or a line of tacking threads on the right side of the fabric. Thread the end of the cord into the foot and position the edge of the work under the foot of the machine. Stitch along the marked line, feeding the cord under the foot, so that the zigzag stitch holds the cord in place. Two parallel lines of cording, 6 mm apart, are a simple, effective touch.


TUCKING Decide on a suitable width and spacing for the tucks: they may be stitched close to the folded edge of the fabric for a very narrow tuck (pin tucks), or up to about 15 mm from the fold for a wider tuck. Calculate the total number of tucks and allow to each tucking when working out} you will need. Add an extra a you can trim the panel a, making up the item. Mark out the tucks across the edge of the area to be stitch areas, such as a duvet cover, center of the fabric as well.