JOINING FABRIC
The first step in making cut fabric widths
Use only full and fabric, Always make sure t matches across the complete Slip-tacking ( 196) is use which are difficult to match widths (if required) at the out curtain. Use flat seams for cu lining, and clip into selvage: seams from puckering.
MAKING UNLINED
After joining fabric width seams, turn u wide double hems down eac the panel of fabric for each CD or hem in place.
FADED CURTAINS
Top wide unlined curtains need, availing or on a ‘heck the help -hey ht. 11 e plus 2cm(it in) turning at the top and 10cm(4 in) for the hem. Include an allowance (the length of the pattern repeat) for pattern matching. Multiply by the number of drops of fabric required. For lined curtains, allow fullness according to the type of tape you are using.
Allow 4 cm (1 in) side hems when calculating the number of drops of fabric. Include a turning allowance of 8 cm (3 in) – the depth of the heading tape- and a hem allowance of 10 cm (4 in). Include any allowance for pattern matching. Since lining fabric is generally slightly narrower than curtain fabric, it is usually fairly simple to calculate the amount needed.
Allow the same amount of fullness for the total width of the curtain, but there is no need to include an allowance for side turnings. No allowance is needed at the top of the curtain, and only 6 cm (2in) for hems. The amount of curtain tape for each curtain is the same as the finished (un-gathered or un-pleated) width, plus a few centimeters for turning under at each end.
JOINING FABRIC WIDTHS
The first step in making curtains is to join fabric widths, Use only full and half-widths of fabric. Always make sure that the pattern matches across the complete set of curtains. Slip-tacking is useful for patterns which are difficult to match. Position half-widths (if required) at the outer edge of each curtain. Use flat seams for curtain fabric and lining, and clip into selvedges to prevent the seams from puckering.
MAKING UNLINED CURTAINS
After joining fabric widths with flat fell seams, turn under 2cm (1 in) wide double hems down each outer edge of the panel of fabric for each curtain. Topstitch or hem in place. 7. 8. 2 At the top, make sure that the fabric edge is straight; turn over a 2 cm (i in) wide turning, mitering corners and trimming away excess fabric if necessary. Cut heading tape to length, turning under 1 cm (i in) at each end, and pin it in place across the top of the curtain 1 cm (i in) from the top fold, so the raw edge is covered.
Pin, then topstitch, making extra lines of stitching across the tape ends to hold the drawstrings firmly. 3 Turn up 2 cm (1 in), and then 8 cm (3 in) across the lower edge of the curtain and slip stitch in place, or use a machine hemming stitch. Use drawstrings to gather the curtains, tying the cords firmly near the center of the curtain. Fit hooks into the woven loops and hang the curtains. If the curtains are to fit inside a window recess, the length has to be precise, therefore, gather and hang the curtains before hemming. This is also advisable with loosely woven fabrics which may ‘drop’ – leave them for at least 24 hours before hemming.
Unlined curtains can be backed if you make up the separate lining and fit a special lining tape. This requires no extra allowance along the top edge of the lining. The lining fabric slips between the two layers of tape and is machined in place. This method will not how- ever, improve the hang of the curtain. It will provide extra insulation and protect the curtain fabric from strong sunlight and fading, as well as making it easier to wash. The curtain hooks are inserted through the lining tape and then into the curtain heading tape before hanging. The lining and curtain can then be hand-sewn together at intervals down the edges, if necessary.