Fit screw eyes around the outer edge of the lower side of a shelf so you can hang the pelmet (valance) from hooks, or stick the hooked side of Velcro (touch and close) fastening around the top of the shelf if you want to fit the pelmet (valance) that way.
Use 12 mm (1 in) plywood or softwood, at least 10 cm (4 in) wide, and cut it the same width as the curtain track plus either ends for clearance. For a box, screw 10cm(4 in) square pieces of wood [0 each end of the shelf before fixing it in place. Fit screw eyes around the outer edge of the lower side of a shelf so you can hang the “Pellet” (valance) from hooks, or stick the hooked side of Velcro (touch and close) fastening around the [Op of the shelf if you want to fit the pelmet (valance) that way.
MAKING A TEMPLATE
Use a large sheet of paper (lining paper or offcuts of wallpaper are suitable). Trim the paper [0 the length of the pelmet (valance) shelf and fold it in half down the center. Sketch out a shape on the folded paper and cut it out through both layers. Unfold the paper and tape it at the [Op of the window so you can check the effect. Make any necessary adjustments. This is now your pat- tern for cutting out the fabric. If you are making a gathered pelmet (valance), you will have [0 ‘spread’ the shaping to allow for the fullness of the fabric.
Take a second piece of paper to correspond with the finished size of the pelmet (valance) before it is gathered. Take a series of measurements, every 10 elm (4 in) or so, down the length of the first template, and transfer these measurements [0 the new template, spreading them apart ac- cording to the type of heading tape you are using: for example, a pinch-pleated heading takes twice the fullness of fabric, so allow for double the spacing between the measurements.
STIFFENED PELMET (VALANCE) Lock the interlining to the main fabric. Position the stiffening on the interlining and herringbone stitch in place all round. Fold the seam allowance of the main fabric over the stiffening, clipping and notching the seam allowance to reduce bulk and to help it to lie Rat. Turn under the seam allowance on the lining so that the panel is about 12 cm smaller all round than the stiffened front panel. Slipstitch the folded hem of the lining to the seam allowance of the front panel all round. Stitch a row of hooks to the inside of the pelmet (valance), or fit the looped half of the Velcro across the top, to fit it to the shelf.
A straight pelmet (valance) can be attached to the shelf with 12mm U in) tacks and the heads covered with braid or a strip of fabric to match or contrast, glued in place.
GATHERED PELMET (VALANCE) Measure up and calculate fabric in the same way as for lined curtains, reducing the hem allowance to 5cm(2 in) on the fabric and 4 cm (1! in) on the lining. Bear in mind that you are making a single pelmet (valance), rather than a pair of curtains. For frilled pelmets (valances), allow 12 mm (! in) seam allowance along the lower edge, and for a bound finish, omit the seam allowance.
Lock the interlining to the main fabric and stiffen the heading if required. Turn under the hem allowance on the lining and position the lining on the fabric. Stitch seams at each end. Turn right side out and press so that the main fabric forms even borders at each end of the pelmet (valance).
Turn the heading allowance to the wrong side across the top of the curtain. Turn under a seam allowance at each end of the heading tape, and position it across the top of it.